Most people say they’ve ‘done Italy’ without having even tried to get under the country’s skin. The backpacker trail usually snakes in a line around major cities Florence, Pisa, Rome, Bologna, Milan, Venice, Naples, maybe with the odd beach break or hilltop village thrown in for good measure.
Granted, there’s a reason these places are so popular – you can’t beat the ancient splendour of Rome, Florence’s art treasures or the gourmet food in Bologna. But if you’re planning to travel though Western Europe this summer, why not go somewhere a little more imaginative?
The northern region of Liguria is by no means ‘hidden’ – home to jet-set favourite Portofino, the ancient maritime republic Genoa and the Cinque Terre, a UNESCO listed national park, the region has plenty of star sights to discover, but a lot less tourists clogging up the trattorias than other areas in Italy. But if you’re backpacking in Europe, Liguria’s got it all – mountains, beach resorts, rolling countryside, medieval hilltop villages, and excellent food. So discover this authentic slice of Italy before everyone else!
What to Do:
Hiking in The Cinque Terre
The main draw for most backpackers is hiking in the Cinque Terre – this scenic strip of five coastal villages, clinging to cliffs plunging into the water is undeniably pretty, and the five small towns – Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore have been preserved as a UNESCO heritage site. Each colourful cluster of houses are closed off to cars, and can only be reached on the coastal paths, by train or by boat.
The trails to each village all offer breathtaking views, and vary in difficulty – novices should start off at the Via dell’Amore (the ‘Lover’s Walk’), an easy stroll along a path cut into the cliffs. Experienced hikers will love the Strada dei Santuari, a torturous path through the mountainside, and thrillseekers can try diving off the Punta di Montenero by Riomaggiore.
Stop off in each village and discover a traditional way of life that hasn’t changed in years – the farmers still tend to vineyards and olive groves on the hillside, and there’s not a chain hotel, sleazy bar or supermarket in sight. Luckily there are several Cinque Terre hostels in the bigger villages like Riomaggiore, but rooms go quickly in high season. ou can also stay in a hostel in La Spezia, an historic port town, and take the scenic train ride to all five villages.
Step back in Time
The Imperia Province in Liguria border’s France, and is home to some glorious hilltop villages. Dolceaqua is probably most famous as the home of Rossese wine, but this medieval village is straight out of a postcard, surrounded by water and tunnelling back up the mountainside. With a ruined castle, an elegant bridge, pretty squares and narrow alleyways hiding craft and art shops, it’s no wonder Claude Monet loved to paint this village. Stay in a hostel in Ventimiglia, a picturesque town that straddles the Roia and Nervia valleys. Home to countless Roman ruins and the huge botanical gardens at Villa Hanbury, you’re within easy reach of the Ligurian Alps for a spot of hiking.
Hit the Beach
Liguria is home to some beautiful beaches, but budget travelers should avoid staying in pricey Portofino, and stay in a Levanto hostel. The small town has a long strip of golden sand, but when you’re bored of the beach, discover the fascinating architecture inland – the ‘Borgo Antico’, a medieval district with a Ligurian Gothic Church, and the Borgo Nuovo, home to some grand 17th and 18th century palazzo.
Portovenere is another cheaper alternative to Portofino – but this fishing village is just as pretty – the ‘Port of Venus’ has been feted for its beauty since Roman times. A hostel in Portovenere is a great base for exploring the rest of the region, but make sure you spend a day wandering past the painted houses that trickle down to the quaint harbour. There are plenty of historical sights too – the striped church of San Pietro, built in 1277, the Romanesque San Lorenzo, and the 16th century Castello – a Genoese fort that offers fantastic views of the Golfo della Spezia. It may be a steep climb up (most villages in the region are built into the rocky mountains), but the view from the top is well worth it.
An Historic City Break
The capital of Liguria and the home of Christopher Colombus and Pesto, Genoa is an ancient maritime republic with bags of history. Spend a few days exploring the medieval labyrinth of streets in the Centro Storico, strolling past the grand 18th century palazzo in Le Strade Nuovo, and discover the Porto Antico, the ancient port that has been given a slick makeover, with modern sculpture, a high-tech aquarium and museums alongside the old ships. (Ed. – Genoa can also be a lot more budget-friendly than the other major Italian cities – check out our guide to a cheap weekend break in Genoa for more info)
What to Eat and Drink:
Need any more reasons to go? Ligurian food and wine is some of the best in Italy, and you can guarantee a top notch meal in the simplest trattoria. The region has its pick of fresh and local produce, with heaps of seafood from the coast. Regional specialities include grilled and fried fish, amazing fresh pesto (served with squiggly fresh pasta called troffi), fresh foccacia bread (made with local olive oil) and Pandolce – a sweet version of Pannetone, stuffed with candied fruits and pine nuts. Liguria’s warm but moist climate is ideal for growing wine, and there are plenty of local vineyards, so regional wines are also great value – try the Vermentino and Pigato white wine, Rossese red and Sciacchetra – a sweet dessert wine. Top tips for scoring a cheap meal? Ligurian fast food is top quality – hit a ‘Foccacerie’, for a slice of Foccacia (stuffed or plain), a ‘Frigattorie’, for a delicious flaky pastry filled with cheese and vegetables, or a Pasticceria for sweet pastries.
When to Go:
During July and August, Liguria’s beaches are hot and crowded, and the resorts are packed out with Italian families, so it can be difficult to find a room, especially along the Cinque Terre. But with the region’s mild climate, the whole of May-October are pleasant months to visit. Go early or late summer, and you’ll avoid the crowds but still get some pretty nice weather.
Been to Liguria and have some budget travel tips or reviews to share? Let us know!
Images Thanks to karl Holland , nyluke, mats hage eikomo, scott liddle, su-lin, remanufactory, and frrjohnson on Flickr.
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July 14th, 2009 at 6:16 pm
Congratulations on the new BLOG!!!